Road To Jordan: Solo travel with bedouins in Wadi Rum
What do the movies The Martian, Transformers, Prometheus and Aladdin all have in common? They've all been filmed in Wadi Rum. The blood red sands of this Jordan natural reserve, have been the backdrop for dozens of movies, and on a hazy Autumn morning it becomes the backdrop of my own personal adventure as I straddle a camel and head over to the camp that will be my home for the next 4 days.
After arriving at the bedouin village which is the traditional starting spot for every explorer intent on tackling the rocky outcrops and plateaux of "the Rum", I am warmly welcomed and invited to wait in the shade with a tea by my host and desert guide, Amir. It's barely 8am but I can already feel the stiffling hot desert air in my throat and the temperature is rising by the minute. I take this opportunity to get Le Book out and read a little bit more about my next target. Entry #237 is small but evocative: A vast desert expanse tinted in a spectrum of pink, yellow and orange, once home to Lawrence Of Arabia... this is my home for the next 4 days.
GETTING THERE
Getting to Wadi Rum is relatively easy. No matter where you leave from, all the buses arrive at the same spot: Wadi Rum village. This authentic bedouin village double up as a visitor's centre. Here you'll be able to stock up on essentials, like water, meet with your guide, book activities such as camel riding, jeep tours and canyon exploring.
FROM AQABA:
BEFORE THE TRIP
BUY YOURSELF A JORDAN PASS: What's a "Jordan Pass" I hear you say? It's a nifty little pass that gives you access to over 40 sites (including Petra). The icing on the cake? The cost of your tourist visa is included in the price! Basically, just get one. It's a no-brainer. https://www.jordanpass.jo/
PACK LIGHT: Especially if, like yours truly, you live somewhere with a temperate climate. Jordan has a hot, dry climate characterized by long, hot summers and short, cool winters so you should get by just fine with light clothing. That being said, while you won't be needing that hoodie and woolen hat you wore on the way to the airport, you will certainly need space in your bag to carry them around. Keep that in mind when you're packing your bags.
BRING HIKING SHOES/BOOTS: You'll be walking. A lot. Yay. So if you have a trusted pair of hiking shoes, bring them along. If you don't, buy a pair well in advance to give you the time to break them. Petra alone extend over 60 square kilometers through canyons and up mountains. On my way down from the Monastery, I've passed grown men crying in pain because of their sore feet and swollen knees. Nuff' said.
ONCE YOU GET THERE
Queen Alia International Airport and King Hussein International Airport are both a short ride away from Amman in the north and Aqaba in the south respectively. Buses are available but I personally went for a taxi. It will set you back a tenner at most and it's an easy way to get to your hotel, especially if this is your first time in Jordan. Pro tip: don't let the young chaps by the taxi lanes take your luggages off your hands. They will basically walk 3 steps to the car, throw your luggage in the trunk, and charge you £5 for their "services". Total rip-off.
Which airport you choose depends on what you want to see the most. Basically, Jordan is a small country so you could drive from Amman to anywhere else in the country in less than a day.
With that in mind:
AMMAN, the capital, is a great option because it's near a number of famous touristic destinations. Jerash, Karak, the Dead Sea and Petra are all a few hours drive away and can each be done as daily excursions. If ancient ruins and museums are your things, the city itself is a gem.
AQABA the second major city after Amman, is located in the south, about 80 km from Wadi Rum, and right next to the Red Sea. It’s also relatively close to Petra. If camel rides, desert trekking and snorkelling is your choice of hobby, Aqaba is your port of call.
SO JORDAN...YAY OR NAY?
Time to climb on my soap box and render my verdict: this trip was planned on the back of a movie, so expectations were quasi non-existent. I came for a temple, but over the course of my stay, I bobbed around in the Dead Sea, strolled along 2000 year old avenues, drank tea around the campfire with the desert Bedouins, went camel riding and explored winding canyons. To say that I had an epic time is a gross understatement. Still, below are my personal highlights, the good, the bad and the downright insane:
YAY: THE JORDANIAN HOSPITALITY
Being invited no less than 7 times for dinner, tea or lunch by complete strangers, very often while asking around for directions. Not to butter me up before trying to sell me dodgy souvenirs or sign me up for a crappy tour but just for the pleasure of sharing food and conversation.
NAY: THE TWO TIERS ECONOMY
I've made peace a long time ago with the fact that being a tourist, I'm essentially walking around with a giant £ painted on my back. But a few unscrupulous merchants took the practice to an entirely new level. Expect a few seconds of intense staring when you ask how much something is, as they try to work out how much of a dumbass you are.
HUH: THE TRAFFIC
Pay attention when crossing the road unless you fancy ending up splattered all over a stranger's windshield. Crossing the road at a pedestrian crossing is dangerous at best. Jaywalking is plain suicidal. If you're going to rent a car, make sure the pick up point is well outside the city center.
What's your Jordan experience? Did I miss anything? Will croc sandals ever make a comeback? Should I stop writing and throw myself off a bridge (a dangerous question to ask on internet)? Leave your comments below and happy travels! x