Road To Jordan: Why you shouldn’t skip Jerash, the city of a 1000 columns
A close second to Petra (at least in my heart!), Jerash is Jordan's largest and most interesting Roman site and another one of its major tourist destination. It would have been easy to give this Roman archeological site a miss, since I'd never even heard the name before I visited Jordan. That would have been a tragic mistake.
Considered by some as one of the best preserved Roman city outside of Italy, the "Pompeii of the East" was once a thriving outpost of the Roman Empire before falling into a slow decline. It was all but lost before being reclaimed from the sands of time (as well as litteral sand!) in 1806. Today, its paved streets, colonnaded avenues, ancient temples, and public plazas attract an ever growing number of archeology buffs lured by tales of ancient forgotten cities. Jerash's location 50km north of Amman in a quiet valley among the mountains of Gilead also makes it perfect for a day trip away from the hustle and bustle of the capital.
GETTING THERE
There's a number of ways to get there from Amman. The easiest (although maybe not the cheapest if you're on a budget) is to go down to your hotel's reception desk and book a private taxi. It's not my usual style, but it was the end of my trip, my legs were shot and I had spare cash left on my budget. It cost around 30JD but the driver will take you right to the entrance and wait for you up to 3-4 hours while you visit the city (which is more time than you need), then drive you back to your hotel in Amman. That's the lazy option and at that point in my trip, I was totally cool with that!
If you're on a budget or just feeling up for it, there is also a bus departing from the North Terminal Bus Station in Amman. It's about 1JD (1.50USD) for a one way trip from Amman to Jerash. Once you get there it is only a short walk to the entrance of the site.
A word to the wise though: buses in Jordan don't follow a strict schedule. Rather, they depart when the bus is full or the driver gets fed up waiting for the bus to get full, whichever comes first. Expect to board several buses as drivers argue over which bus has the more people in it. It's good fun, and you usually get to strike conversations with other passengers, but it might not be ideal if you're in a hurry. You can also decide to rent a car or join a tour, but since I did neither of these things, it's beyond the scope of this post.
DISCOVERING JERASH
Allow 3 hours or so for a full visit. The site is open from 8AM till 4PM in Winter, and from 8AM till 8PM in Summer. The entrance fee is around 8JD and well worth it. If you don't want to shell out any cash, you're in for a treat too: the first few ruins are outside the Visitor's Center and can be seen free of charge. Jerash is a big site, but not a massive one like Petra. Still, make sure that you don't miss the highlights:
Hippodrome: As the name imply, this huge stadium was used for horses and chariots races as well as gladiator fights. It was large enough fto accomodate a crowd of 15,000. It's still used today for reenactments
Hadrian's Arch: The city's impressive southern gate was originally commissioned to honour Emperor Hadrian (the same guy who built the Hadrian's Wall in distant Scotland!)
Forum: Encircled by 56 columns, this oval-shaped forum was once used as a marketplace and for important public events.
Temple of Artemis: Dedicated to the patron of the city, the goddess of hunting's temple once dominated the whole city. It was eventually replaced by a church later on.
Nymphaeum: This elegant fountain located on the western side of the cardo maximus was constructed in 191 AD and is dedicated to the Nymphs.
Jerash Archeology Museum: Established in 1923, this small museum houses a collection of various artifacts found in the area.
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
FOOD & DRINKS: As archeological sites go, Jerash is not massive and the terrain is mostly flat, but after a few hours of exploring and Instagraming like there's no tomorrow, chances are you will have worked quite an appetite. While there is not restauration on site (which is a great thing by the way. Just saying...) you will have no trouble finding restaurants and streetfood vendors around the area or in the modern part of the city located a stone throw away. If you're looking for cheap and plentiful, then your best bet is the Green Vally Restaurant. If you're looking for something a bit more upscale, then head over to the Lebanese House Um Khalil Restaurant. Finally, for those who prefer all-you-can-eat buffets, try the aptly named Old Roman Restaurant.
ACCOMODATION: Not a lot of options there, mostly because the majority of tourists come on day trips from Amman, but I did find 2 that seemed decent. The Olive Branch Hotel is a medium-sized, family run hotel located 6kms from the ruins. If you don't have a car or if location is your main concern then it's hard to beat the Hadrian's Gate Hotel, which sits right across the road from... that's right, Hadrian's Gate! Why would you want to stay the night though? Well, there's quite a few things to see in the area. Which takes us to...
THINGS TO DO AROUND JERASH: If you're staying overnight, make some time to visit Aljoun Castle, a 12th century fortress built by Saladin, and enjoy the stunning views of the Jordan Valley below (rumor has it that on clear days, one can even catch a glimpse of the Dead Sea on the horizon). Once you've had your fill of the desert heat, head down to the Ajloun Forest Reserve, a small but beautiful natural park established by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN) in 1988 to protect the local flora and fauna
SO JERASH...YAY OR NAY?
Full disclosure: I am a History buff. I particularly love the Antiquity period and within that period of history, I specifically like the Roman era, so this isn't exactly impartial advice. For me Jerash was like being a kid in a toy shop. That being said, even someone with no affinity to the Roman world will still find plenty to be excited about in Jerash If you are staying in Amman and have a day to spare, you'd be a fool to give Jerash a miss.
YAY: THE HIPPODROME
If it's the season and you love a bit of action, book a ticket for the Hippodrome. This is probably the closest you will ever come to see a real gladiator fight or chariot race (without the blood and gore, but hey, you can't have it all!)
NAY: THIS NAY SECTION
I've included a Nay section to every post in an attempt to give a balanced and fair review of every destination I visit, but it's super hard to think of something I didn't like about Jerash.
HUH: FAKE ARTIFACTS
Some vendors may be selling items claimed to be found inside the park, but resist the urge to take home a piece of history - it's illegal.
What's your Jordan experience? Did I miss anything? Will croc sandals ever make a comeback? Should I stop writing and throw myself off a bridge (a dangerous question to ask on internet)? Leave your comments below and happy travels! x