Road To Jordan: Your travel’s checklist to the Hashemite Kingdom
I'd love to tell you that my trip to Jordan was born out of a passion for ancient Nabateans wall carvings, but my nose would grow so fast that it would pierce right through my laptop screen.
The much less exciting truth is that Indiana Jones And The Last Crusade was on TV for like, the 5th time that year and I don't know why, but something clicked that night: I too WOULD follow in Indy's footsteps and stand in front of that really cool temple carved out of a cliff one day.
After a bit of research, "one day" became September the 9th and fast forward a few weeks after that, here I am at Queen Aliya International getting my passport stamped while adjusting my kick ass new fedora.
First impressions always matter, and I have to say, for a country its size, Jordan has a lot to offer. From its capital, the ancient citadel of Amman to the Roman city of Jerash (get a load of that, that's where the word geriatric comes from), to the Crusader fort of Al Karak, you will find that excitement (and mangy cats) lurks around every corners in this little Middle Eastern country. Add to the mix two of the world’s most renowned UNESCO site - the ancient city of Petra, and the natural reserve of Wadi Rum - and what you get is the perfect recipe for Adventure with a capital "A".
LET’S START WITH THE BASICS. WHERE IS JORDAN?
Laugh all you want but I didn't know. Jordan is a small country located in the Arabian Peninsula, flanked by Israel & Egypt to the West, Saudi Arabia & Iraq to the South & East, and Syria to the North. Most of the sights and things to do are located in the southwestern part of the country. This makes it very easy to see everything in about 8-10 days if you plan your trip well.
COUNTRY PROFILE
- Capital: Amman
- Currency: Jordanian Dinar (JD)
- Population: 6.5 million
- Major language: Arabic
- Famous for: Petra, the Dead Sea, Wadi-Rum
BEFORE THE TRIP
BUY YOURSELF A JORDAN PASS: What's a "Jordan Pass" I hear you say? It's a nifty little pass that gives you access to over 40 sites (including Petra). The icing on the cake? The cost of your tourist visa is included in the price! Basically, just get one. It's a no-brainer. https://www.jordanpass.jo/
PACK LIGHT: Especially if, like yours truly, you live somewhere with a temperate climate. Jordan has a hot, dry climate characterized by long, hot summers and short, cool winters so you should get by just fine with light clothing. That being said, while you won't be needing that hoodie and woolen hat you wore on the way to the airport, you will certainly need space in your bag to carry them around. Keep that in mind when you're packing your bags.
BRING HIKING SHOES/BOOTS: You'll be walking. A lot. Yay. So if you have a trusted pair of hiking shoes, bring them along. If you don't, buy a pair well in advance to give you the time to break them. Petra alone extend over 60 square kilometers through canyons and up mountains. On my way down from the Monastery, I've passed grown men crying in pain because of their sore feet and swollen knees. Nuff' said.
ONCE YOU GET THERE
Queen Alia International Airport and King Hussein International Airport are both a short ride away from Amman in the north and Aqaba in the south respectively. Buses are available but I personally went for a taxi. It will set you back a tenner at most and it's an easy way to get to your hotel, especially if this is your first time in Jordan. Pro tip: don't let the young chaps by the taxi lanes take your luggages off your hands. They will basically walk 3 steps to the car, throw your luggage in the trunk, and charge you £5 for their "services". Total rip-off.
Which airport you choose depends on what you want to see the most. Basically, Jordan is a small country so you could drive from Amman to anywhere else in the country in less than a day.
With that in mind:
AMMAN, the capital, is a great option because it's near a number of famous touristic destinations. Jerash, Karak, the Dead Sea and Petra are all a few hours drive away and can each be done as daily excursions. If ancient ruins and museums are your things, the city itself is a gem.
AQABA the second major city after Amman, is located in the south, about 80 km from Wadi Rum, and right next to the Red Sea. It’s also relatively close to Petra. If camel rides, desert trekking and snorkelling is your choice of hobby, Aqaba is your port of call.
BEST ITINERARIES?
That depends on your budget, your travelling style, how fit you are and your personal tastes. Below is the itinerary I followed and it didn't suck:
Day 1: Arrival in Amman
Day 2: Early start. Dead Sea
Day 3: Karak
Day 4: Petra. Overnight stay in a bedouin village on the outskirt of the site.
Day 5: Wadi-Rum
Day 6: Wadi-Rum
Day 7: Aqaba/Red Sea
Day 8: Early start. Back to Amman.
Day 9: Jerash
Day 10: Amman Citadel & Museums
There's enough things to do in Jordan to keep yourself busy for a month, but Petra, Wadi Rum, Karak & Jerash are by far the most well-known.
If you're staying longer than 10 days, then consider adding Mt Nebo, the Jordan River, and maybe spend another day in Petra. If you only have a few days, then you can probably do without Jerash and Karak. Petra and Wadi Rum are both absolute must-see though, and you cannot leave the country without visiting both. That would be like going to Paris and not visit the Louvres Museum and the Eiffel Tower!
FOOD, ACCOMODATION, AND ALL THAT JAZZ...
Good news: Travel & accomodation are cheap as chips and food is both inexpensive & plentiful.
TRAVEL: I didn't get to use public transport that often but the one time I did I paid around £0.40 for the ticket. Taxis are the most convenient and common mode of transportation. Expect to pay anything between £3-7 for a ride in Amman. Long distance journey aren't that much more expensive. Petra to Wadi Rum with a cab ( that's a 4 hour journey) cost around £35. That's cheaper than a train ticket in most countries.
FOOD & DRINKS: A cheap meal (shawarma anyone?) will set you back less than £5. A decent lunch or dinner is around the £10 mark. I have no idea how much a fancy meal cost because I am poor as a church mouse. Alcohol is hard to come by, as expected in a Muslim country, but is not impossible to find. Jordan is actually quite liberal, and as long as you don't get absolutely blitzed in public, they're not that bothered about booze. Water cost pennies and take my word for it, you will need gallons of it. Before this trip, I don't think I'd ever experienced genuine thirst. Don't fret though: water sellers are a dime a dozen. Usually kids. Always in groups. Always annoying. They're noisy but harmless. Kinda like hobbits really.
ACCOMODATION: A cheap room with the inhabitant (Airbnb anyone?) cost around £10-20 per night. A nice room in a hotel cost anything between £20-40 per night. I have no idea how much a fancy room in a swanky hotel cost because see above. If you can, try and stay with the locals. It's cheaper, more convivial and the food is ace: One night, I ate lemon chicken slow cooked in a hole in the sand. If you're a Star Wars fan,this is the closest you'll ever come to having lunch with sand people. One notable exception to my golden rule: If you stay in Amman, do yourself a favour and book a room at the Pasha Hotel: £25 a night for a single room with shower and wifi, awesome staff and the food is tits. The owner is a font of local knowledge, and he'll be able to set you up with guides or to give you advice on how to best get to (insert destination here). Last but not least, their roof terrace has the best views of the Roman Theatre and the city at night. So much so in fact, that guests from other hotels go there for their after dinner tipple.
SO JORDAN...YAY OR NAY?
Time to climb on my soap box and render my verdict: this trip was planned on the back of a movie, so expectations were quasi non-existent. I came for a temple, but over the course of my stay, I bobbed around in the Dead Sea, strolled along 2000 year old avenues, drank tea around the campfire with the desert Bedouins, went camel riding and explored winding canyons. To say that I had an epic time is a gross understatement. Still, below are my personal highlights, the good, the bad and the downright insane:
YAY: THE JORDANIAN HOSPITALITY
Being invited no less than 7 times for dinner, tea or lunch by complete strangers, very often while asking around for directions. Not to butter me up before trying to sell me dodgy souvenirs or sign me up for a crappy tour but just for the pleasure of sharing food and conversation.
NAY: THE TWO TIERS ECONOMY
I've made peace a long time ago with the fact that being a tourist, I'm essentially walking around with a giant £ painted on my back. But a few unscrupulous merchants took the practice to an entirely new level. Expect a few seconds of intense staring when you ask how much something is, as they try to work out how much of a dumbass you are.
HUH: THE TRAFFIC
Pay attention when crossing the road unless you fancy ending up splattered all over a stranger's windshield. Crossing the road at a pedestrian crossing is dangerous at best. Jaywalking is plain suicidal. If you're going to rent a car, make sure the pick up point is well outside the city center.
What's your Jordan experience? Did I miss anything? Will croc sandals ever make a comeback? Should I stop writing and throw myself off a bridge (a dangerous question to ask on internet)? Leave your comments below and happy travels! x